Word: chefs
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...ingredients that can be prepared in advance, there is a higher profit percentage in desserts than in most appetizers or entrees. "Waiters also like to offer pastries because that raises the check and, therefore, the tip that is a percentage of the total," observes Dieter Schorner, the gifted pastry chef whose velvety chocolate cake and supple, sugar-glazed creme brulee have caused many a dieter's downfall at such restaurants as Le Cirque in Manhattan and Potomac in Washington...
...certain things," says Sam Rubin, owner of the seafood restaurant John Clancy's in Manhattan, where individual lemon meringue tarts ($6) and dense, moist chocolate velvet cake ($6) are among the first to go. Another trend: dessert samplers, with an assortment of up to seven different confections. Joyce Goldstein, chef-owner of San Francisco's Square One, describes her $6.50 version as "a ritual platter, a little orgy...
With the American sweet tooth ever aching for fulfillment, it is no wonder that the role of the pastry chef has become more glamorous and more highly paid in recent years. At the Culinary Arts Division of Johnson & Wales University in Providence, a two-year pastry program that began with 13 students in 1983 now has 208 who are learning to perfect such all-American favorites as cheesecake (the choice of one out of four restaurant dessert eaters), apple pie, fruit tarts and chocolate everything. "Making pastry requires creativity," says Arlene Chorney, an administrator at the school. "It's edible...
Perhaps one of her graduates will become a latter-day Careme, the incomparable 19th century pastry chef to Talleyrand. All it would take is the right proportions of diligence, talent, eggs, butter and sugar, and perhaps a short prayer to St. Honore, patron saint of bakers...
...made complex by the addition of fermented black beans. The beans are the basis of a rich sauce of their own in Cantonese cookery. Here their aromas blend with the Szechwan bouquet in a way that I find very novel. Perhaps this is the "continental cuisine" of Taipei, where Chef Hou won his epaulettes at a major hotel...