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Perhaps nothing symbolized the American team's efforts at the Bocuse d'Or better than its beef cheeks. At the world's premier chef's competition, which ended on Jan. 28 in Lyons, France, the Estonians transformed the cheeks - a required ingredient this year - into pot-au-feu, the Brazilians stuffed potatoes with them, and the Malaysians spiced them up into rendang. But the U.S. competitors, 28-year-old Timothy Hollingsworth and his assistant, Adina Guest, braised the meat until it was silky, set it on a tiny round of baby turnip, and topped it with a floret of broccolini...
...fact, for the young chefs who compete in the contest - founded by revered French chef Paul Bocuse - navigating between the desire to demonstrate the glories of their national cuisine (to say nothing of their own creativity) and the wish to please a jury that tends to favor the classic French style is precisely the challenge. "If you're playing soccer, you can't use your hands," says Antonio Saura, a Spanish filmmaker whose 2007 documentary El Pollo, el Pez, y el Cangrejo Real featured the competition. "The Bocuse is the same way: you have to play by their rules...
...rules are precise. The biennial contest assigns the main proteins that all teams use (this year they included Norwegian cod and several different cuts of Angus beef) and gives contestants 5 1?2 hours to prepare the two platters, which are then evaluated by a jury comprised of one chef from each participating country. If 5 1?2 hours sounds like plenty of time, bear in mind that contestants must also complement their proteins with elaborate garnishes, keep their cramped kitchens clean, and stay organized while they cook on a stage, watched by thousands of screaming fans...
Team president Thomas Keller, chef at the French Laundry, signed on when he was approached by none other than Bocuse himself. "When Monsieur Bocuse asks you, you say 'Yes, Chef,' " he explains. Keller transformed his father's old house, located next door to the Napa Valley restaurant, into a training center for Hollingsworth and Guest, and together with New York City?based four-star chef and honorary Bocuse president Daniel Boulud, raised $500,000 for the team. Their aim, Boulud says, was "to show what amazing food we cook...
...never placed higher than sixth place, but this year's degree of preparation - as well as its all-star leadership - seemed to bode well for Hollingsworth and Guest. Bocuse himself even said he hoped the U.S. would win. As supporters chanted "Yes we can" from the stands, the two chefs remained focused on their cooking, daring to break into smiles only when their platters had been paraded past the judges. In the end, Hollingsworth said he was proud of what his team accomplished, but that he thinks he understands why they didn't place higher. "What we do is more...