Word: chefs
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Adoration. Over at the St. Regis in New York, chef Alain Ducasse is offering a three-course tasting menu at Adour for $145 per person, and a five-course truffle menu for $290 per person. At his Washington, D.C., outpost, the menu is slightly less dear, with a four appetizers and four entrees to choose from for $95 per person. And you get cotton candy to top it off. Who knew that was an aphrodisiac? New York: 2 East 55th Street, 212-710-2277; Washington: 923 16th Street at K Street...
...Your Luck. At David Burke Townhouse, chef Burke is offering a four-course $85 prix fixe, but if you dare go on Friday the 13th, you'll get 20% off. There is also a champagne-and-roses brunch on Saturday and Sunday for $35. 133 East 61st Street, 212-813-2121 (See 10 things to do in New York City...
...only it were that simple. Known for its blood orange foams, and 'spherified' croquettes made from ham broth - as well as for bringing the likes of centrifuges and hydrocolloids into the kitchen - molecular gastronomy has been more reviled than any style of cooking since a handful of chefs thought stacking a few undressed pea pods on the plate and calling it nouvelle cuisine was a good idea. That might account for why the trio sounded ever so slightly defensive as they protected the role of science in their kitchens. Brandishing a loaf of bread like an amulet, Adrià, chef...
...Blumenthal, chef and owner of The Fat Duck in Bray, England, agreed. "We all use sugar. And sugar - sucrose - doesn't grow in the form of white grains. It has to be processed. Yet sugar is okay. Sucrose is okay. It's only when you get to maltodextrin (a group of low-molecular-weight carbohydrates produced by the hydrolysis of starch) that people start saying, 'Wait a minute, that's going too far.'" (Read a TIME story about Blumenthal's perfect day in London...
...David Chang, the chef behind the adored Momofuku restaurants in New York, was more skeptical. "It's never going to lose the name molecular. Hippies don't like being called hippies, but that's what everyone knows them by." Still Chang, who described the panel members as "the Mount Rushmore of current gastronomy," wasn't troubled by the prospect. "This style of cooking, is a language, a code, and it can be intimidating. But only if you don't try to understand it. The boneheads who reject it never ask questions, never ask why someone might cook this...