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...Ferran Adria, of course, is not just any cook. He is the chef of elBulli, the globally celebrated restaurant about two hours outside Barcelona for which patrons can wait years to secure a reservation - 2 million requests are fielded each year for 8,000 spots. And he's here because he's been hailed as the father of "molecular gastronomy" (a term that does not appeal to him), having invented the technique of reducing foods to their essence, and then transforming the form in which they're presented - flavored foams and the like - techniques now common in high-end restaurants...
Adria began his presentation with a brief film that offered a visual approximation of the experience of dining at El Bulli, and then, as his friend, Harvard microbiology professor Roberto Kolter translated, the Catalan chef launched into an entertaining and impressive discussion of the science of his cuisine. He focused on his discovery of new textures - particularly the magical uses of hydrocolloids and liquid nitrogen to give foods shapes they'd never assume without the intervention of innovative physics. The crowd exhaled collective "aaaahs" as if they could almost taste the bejeweled concoctions being assembled on video before them - perfect...
Melon caviar, spherical lemon tea, transparent pasta, and ham consommé are some of the foods that can be found at elBulli, Ferran Adrià’s three-Michelin-star restaurant in Catalonia, Spain. The world-renowned chef, known for mixing food and science, spoke about his novel creations to a packed audience last night in Jefferson Hall. Adrià has pioneered, for example, the art of melon caviar—he combines cantaloupe and water with the chemicals alginic acid and calcic to create the spherification of tiny caviar-like balls. The use of scientific techniques?...
...Perhaps. But as people buy more tongues, brains, chitterlings (intestines) and trotters (feet), price is not the only consideration. British chef Fergus Henderson, who had a hand in the trend back to organs when he opened his London restaurant St. John with an offal-filled menu in 1994, says taste matters - and every part of an animal can be delicious. "It was never a mission to start the offal ball rolling; it just seemed common sense, good eating," says Henderson, whose cookbook Nose to Tail Eating: A Kind of British Cooking was met with rave reviews...
Party Like It's 1899. Sixteen of New York City's top-rated restaurants, including Per Se, Adour and Chanterelle, will serve multicourse Victorian banquets of each chef's interpretation, from January to March 2009, and donate some of the proceeds to charity. Café des Artistes will recreate the dinner you may have drooled over in the film Babette's Feast, while French seafood restaurant Le Bernadin will do all things de la mer, complete with top hats, candles, and "the rich sauces of the day," says chef Eric Ripert. Check the Zagat Guide's website for dates, menus...