Word: chiangs
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...other aides who were on duty around the clock wheeled Roosevelt because his personal valet was not allowed in the room. "One glance at the map showing the convoys headed for the African coast could tell the story," says Elsey, also recalling when Eleanor Roosevelt brought China's Mme. Chiang Kai-shek unannounced into the Map Room, causing great consternation. It never happened again...
...this day, getting to Pai demands initiative. The Thai government widened and paved the endless series of hairpin bends in 1980, but the stomach-churning journey from Chiang Mai still takes two to three hours by private van. Adventurous budget travelers were the first foreigners attracted to Pai's idyllic isolation, burbling streams, cylindrical haystacks and manicured fields of garlic and soybeans. If you overlook the thatched-roof bamboo huts, Muslim mosque?some of the KMT were Muslim Chinese?and Buddhist temples, the place looks almost like a Monet painting...
...motorbikes or jeeps and explore the several temples, waterfalls and hot springs scattered throughout the valley. Or you can just hang out. "The distractions here are the ones you make for yourself," says Daniel Eiland, a twentysomething Thai-American musician at Latino Swimming Pool who moved to Pai from Chiang Mai several years ago. A wander through the daily afternoon market on Rungsiyanon Road offers a great window on Pai-style multiculturalism. Wizened Karen hill-tribe grandmas with dark turbans wrapped around their heads sell hand-embroidered crafts on the sidewalk. Teenage Lisu girls in their traditional vivid tunics...
UNCOMMON GROUNDS Foreigners aren't the only nonlocals to come under Pai's spell since the late 1980s. The hippest spots in town belong to the artsy young Thai bohemians who have fled Bangkok, Chiang Mai and other crowded urban centers in search of a slower-paced and less profit-oriented lifestyle. Opened in 1999 by two disaffected Bangkok advertising execs, All About Coffee must be one of the coolest caf?s in Thailand. None of the large Western coffeehouse chains can compete with its homespun, rustic-wood ambiance, mellow jazz sounds and delightfully personalized service. Not to mention a three...
...About Coffee is to hot beverages?heartfelt and happenin'. Its Thai owner heard B.B. King perform in London in the early '90s and has recreated an authentic blues bar atmosphere on Chaisongkram Road. Resident and visiting bluesmen bop against a backdrop of Indonesian batiks, Western blues festival posters and Chiang Mai lanterns. The one thing owner Chart has not brought to Pai, however, is the late hours: out of consideration for his neighbors, he voluntarily turns off the amplifiers...