Word: chickens
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...problem for the movement. If "simple" cooking ("getting out of the way" is how most chefs put it) is the best, why do you need a chef at all? Or three-star (or any) restaurants? Every chef has his story he likes to tell of eating a boiled chicken some Swiss farmer gave him once, and how perfect it was. But he doesn't measure himself by Swiss farmers. He looks at Alain Passard, whose three-star Paris restaurant treats vegetables as if they were as precious as plutonium. He looks at Japan's Yoshihiro Narisawa, who recently demonstrated...
...gets the upscale treatment at branches of this swish chain (also called Ding Ding Xiang). The mixed-vegetable platter and the sampler dish of Inner Mongolian lamb will give you plenty of things to simmer, and go well with either the mushroom broth or the herbal black-chicken soup. The latter features medicinal ingredients like goji berries and red dates for extra goodness. Get a side order of the restaurant's award-winning sesame crispbread, and wash it all down with a jug of cold soybean milk. Dinner for two runs to about $35. The Shin Kong Place branch...
Chiansixianshige The custom at this homely venue in central southeastern Beijing is to cook your meal not in broth but in zhou, or congee, a watery rice porridge. The list of what you can simmer in it is worthy of Noah's Ark. Try the wild mountain chicken, which is not, in this case, a euphemism for frog (though that is available) but an actual fowl. The trick with the chicken is to cook the pieces of white meat very quickly - or you'll be chewing on pieces of rope, this being a scrawny bird - and let the rest simmer...
...streets for inspiration. "Street food is not always purely Thai food," he tells me on a stroll through Bangkok, his second home after London. "It's often food that's been imported from other cultures and assimilated." Satay hails from the Malay-speaking world. Khao man gai, a popular chicken-and-rice dish, was introduced by 19th century immigrants from China's Hainan province; their descendants still sell it on Bangkok streets. Pad Thai, perhaps Thailand's most recognized dish, is also indebted to China. "It's Chinese noodles stir-fried, but with additional palm sugar and tamarind water," explains...
...Fast-food hamburgers by and large are the same tasteless gray pucks now as they were during the Ford Administration; they just have better commercials and more toppings. Hot dogs are still exactly the same as they were during the Korean War. Nor has gnarly, underseasoned and overcrusted fried chicken improved much. But pizza is growing and breathing; it seems to have a special place in America. Maybe it's because pizza's the most domesticated of all our dishes, meant to be eaten at home. (Domino's, Papa John's and the other delivery outfits don't even have...