Word: chicness
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Dates: during 1970-1979
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...houses in Paris, London and New York City have been as flawed as a bargain-basement diamond. Around the turn of the century, rather like a cutter splitting a precious stone, three grandsons of Founder Louis Cartier decided to go their separate ways in the three great capitals of chic, and what they got was an exceedingly lopsided split. Cartier Ltd. in London maintained close ties with Paris' Cartier S.A., which clung to classic haute joaillerie with designs rooted in the 19th century. Cartier Inc. in New York tried to be more responsive to changes in fashion. One resuit...
...Francisco, suavely tailored pants outfits and evening pajamas vied for attention. Many of the designs, such as Calvin Klein's apron dress and Oscar de la Renta's rhumba number (see color pages), are deftly droll. There were raincoats that managed to be practical and chic as well, T shirts that could be worn to the opera, sportsuits that could enhance a dinner table as easily as the driving range...
Certainly American fashion today is much more than pretty clothes. Says Geraldine Stutz, president of ultra-chic Henri Bendel in Manhattan and one of retailing's shrewdest oracles: "Fashion is a much broader concept now. It's not just from the chin to the ankles. Fashion now means health, good looks, being in shape, good skin, beauty care. It means wine, furniture, needlecraft, growing things. Fashion today means the environment as well as clothes...
...Clothes today must fit into this supersonic pace of living. It's an economic reality. The indulgence is over." American chic is the country cousin who came to the city, the drop-in guest who stayed for a candlelight dinner. It has drifted in from the gold mines and cattle ranges of the Old West, from the wharves, barracks and boiler rooms of today, carrying a look as cleanly functional as sled or scythe. It is fluid, soft, supple, slithery, sexy and unstuffy. Says Consuelo Crespi, editor of Italian Vogue...
...effortless look, the throwaway chic that the Americans do so well. They can give a dinner party for eight, be up early next morning on the tennis court, and still look fresh the next day." The great and relatively recent accomplishment of American fashion has been to take dictatorship away from the designer...