Word: chiffons
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...different. You could say that the European designers on display at the spring 2005 collection last week in Milan went beyond manufacturing clothes abroad; they outsourced their inspiration. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, who had recently traveled to Botswana, brought back a sexy show filled with zebra-striped chiffon dresses, ivory bangles and chic safari jackets. After a 10-day romp through Asia last April, Giorgio Armani returned with a vision of a fictional Asian woman in soft satin pajama pants, boxy Chinese jackets and coolie hats. Gianfranco Ferre looked over the horizon to exotic locales like San Salvador...
...American sportswear giants like Michael Kors, he still refers to what he calls an Asian sense of rusticity, evident in the handiwork on a muslin cardigan or the Chinese floral block print on a shirt. In the spring collection he showed last week--his fourth--Lam brought out pastel chiffon tea dresses inspired by the 1930s. But while the silhouette was refined and sensual, many of the fabrics were handloomed linens and denims...
...Panichgul is inspired by Cecil Beaton photographs. Chow--who showed bed jackets made of sequins stamped out of Coca-Cola cans and embroidered brocade coats inspired by Masai patterns--looks to such women as cosmetics mogul Helena Rubinstein. And Som, who showed gold velvet pedal pushers with delicately beaded chiffon blouses, is enamored of eccentric society women like Edith Sitwell...
...blue. Reem Acra designed a dress that allows brides to choose from various colored underlays. The color wave is set to continue: at last month's spring 2005 bridal shows, Carolina Herrera unveiled a black-and-white polka-dot taffeta gown, Amsale debuted a mocha-and-ivory lace-and-chiffon dress, and Monique Lhuillier accented her collection with brown satin ribbons and rich teal blue sashes...
...Fashion at the time was all about giant shoulder pads and drab minimalism, but Galliano was determined to change that. In 1995 he landed the job of revitalizing the stuffy house of Givenchy and shocked the French fashion establishment with his romantic vision of disheveled beauties in chiffon slips and billowing ball gowns. A year later, when he took over the coveted top spot at Dior, a couture house with a heritage more sacred to the French than the 35-hour workweek, the French press saw it as a sign of the nation's cultural decline. But Galliano persevered, teaching...