Word: chine
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...long-sleeved, shirt-collared jacket, pleated wrap skirt and ivory muscle-sleeve T shirt ($210). The suit jacket can be worn with Anthony's matching pleated trousers ($60) by day. The look can be varied with the addition of Blassport's long-sleeved ivory polyester crepe-de-chine front-buttoned shirt ($44), which can be worn partly buttoned and knotted around the waist for a casual evening...
...cocktail parties, consider Calvin Klein's salmon crepe-de-chine long-sleeved blouse with banded collar, and his separate matching narrow-front wrap skirt (both for $232). Finally, for that most glamorous evening, the jewel of the wardrobe: Halston's peach silk crepe-de-chine evening jumpsuit, bare back, with halter top, bias cowl neck and bias self-sash at waist...
Morocco Inspired. Yves Saint Laurent celebrated détente with a Russian look: three-quarter-length suede coats bordered in mink, worn over a sum velvet skirt and a printed cossack blouse in crepe de Chine, all topped by a huge matching mink toque. Another Y.S.L. standout was a silk poplin pelisse lined and trimmed in fisher, over a tweed suit with a tweedy patterned crepe de Chine blouse. For evening he had many floating mousselines, including several djellabas that were probably inspired by Saint Laurent's trips to Morocco, where he has a house...
...This," declared Master Chef Danny Kaye, "is Empress Chicken with Devoted Eunuch Vegetables." His audience, ten Bay Area gourmets who had enlisted for a cordon crêpe de Chine course at Mme. Cecilia Chiang's restaurant, The Mandarin, was suitably impressed, gasping as a duck skin was brutally inflated with a bike pump to demonstrate how to make Peking duck. Kaye started coming to class last year; then, when his old friend Mme. Chiang (no kin to Mme. Chiang Kaishek) fell ill, he stepped in as instructor. Danny still makes the weekly trip from his Beverly Hills home...
...change lies in France's exquisite fabrics-luxuriant silk, crepe de chine, shantung, georgette, satin. These are meticulously cut and joined, often on the diagonal introduced in the 1920s by Madeleine Vionnet -who is inactive but still alert at 97. The "bias cut" makes clothes drape sexily against the body. Since the favored fabrics of 1974 are gossamer-thin and always unlined, they need, even demand ample length to prevent skirts from being unintentionally hoisted at the slightest breeze. The result is a calf-length skirt that is wider, freer and not quite as long as the ill-fated...