Word: chinee
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Dates: during 1970-1979
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Morocco Inspired. Yves Saint Laurent celebrated détente with a Russian look: three-quarter-length suede coats bordered in mink, worn over a sum velvet skirt and a printed cossack blouse in crepe de Chine, all topped by a huge matching mink toque. Another Y.S.L. standout was a silk poplin pelisse lined and trimmed in fisher, over a tweed suit with a tweedy patterned crepe de Chine blouse. For evening he had many floating mousselines, including several djellabas that were probably inspired by Saint Laurent's trips to Morocco, where he has a house...
...This," declared Master Chef Danny Kaye, "is Empress Chicken with Devoted Eunuch Vegetables." His audience, ten Bay Area gourmets who had enlisted for a cordon crêpe de Chine course at Mme. Cecilia Chiang's restaurant, The Mandarin, was suitably impressed, gasping as a duck skin was brutally inflated with a bike pump to demonstrate how to make Peking duck. Kaye started coming to class last year; then, when his old friend Mme. Chiang (no kin to Mme. Chiang Kaishek) fell ill, he stepped in as instructor. Danny still makes the weekly trip from his Beverly Hills home...
...change lies in France's exquisite fabrics-luxuriant silk, crepe de chine, shantung, georgette, satin. These are meticulously cut and joined, often on the diagonal introduced in the 1920s by Madeleine Vionnet -who is inactive but still alert at 97. The "bias cut" makes clothes drape sexily against the body. Since the favored fabrics of 1974 are gossamer-thin and always unlined, they need, even demand ample length to prevent skirts from being unintentionally hoisted at the slightest breeze. The result is a calf-length skirt that is wider, freer and not quite as long as the ill-fated...
...butterfly bow ties; and two-tone spectator shoes, all for both sexes. Daytime wear for women relies on little white pleated skirts ending just above the knee, and small cloche hats pulled down to the eyebrows For evening, everything is soft and flowing in chiffon and crepe de Chine, bias cut to drape close to the body, just the thing for a moonlight tango with a gentleman in an Indian silk suit. The fabrics are natural-wool, linens, pure cotton-and difficult to care for, with a tendency to develop the rumpled badge of the thoroughly bred. "A poor...
...Chine most of the people are peasants, are mainly in justified workers. Yet in the past almost nobody from these two groups was admitted to the University. So changes were certainly needed in admission requirements...