Word: chiricos
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...book's name and cover caught my eye simultaneously. V.S. Naipaul's The Enigma of Arrival was illustrated with a similarly titled painting by Giorgio de Chirico, the Greek-Italian pre-Surrealist. I pored over the book, which describes the Trinidadian Nobel laureate's own coming to terms with living in southern England, a few miles from where I had grown up. Enthused and enthralled, I decided I wanted the painting...
...walked its grid, we were greeted by a phantasmagoric palette of Rubens, Da Vinci and Van Gogh copies. Painting quietly in an alleyway, one young artist seemed to find us rather than vice versa. As Tamara translated, he cast an appreciative eye over a printout of De Chirico's Enigma, and promised a 2-sq.-ft. canvas reproduction, in a fortnight...
...Chirico's pristinely preserved two-level apartment in Rome's splendid Piazza di Spagna, where he lived for more than 30 years until his death in 1978, is an intimate way to encounter some of the artist's best-known works. A guide ushers visitors into the living area, which has been left largely as it was during De Chirico's life and displays dozens of his works. "He lived in his own museum," notes Victoria Noel-Johnson, project coordinator for the Giorgio and Isa de Chirico Foundation...
...living room features several impressive neo-Metaphysical pieces from the 1960s and '70s, including Orpheus the Wearied Troubadour (1970, pictured). During this period, De Chirico reworked the haunting depictions of piazzas and faceless troubadours from the canvases of the 1910s and '20s that made him famous. There are also neo-Baroque portraits of De Chirico and his wife, Isabella, in regal 17th century attire, which display his masterly brushwork and ironic eye for melodrama...
...Chirico's spirit is strongest in the top-floor painter's studio, which remains just as he left it at the time of his death. Dried-up paint tubes and brushes are strewn about, and his unfinished oil-on-canvas copy of Michelangelo's masterpiece The Doni Tondo is displayed on his easel. Sunlight streams through the skylights, illuminating De Chirico's library of art and philosophy books and his collection of traditional Italian good-luck charms. De Chirico's modern twist on the classical is a fresh and re-energizing dose of Roman art. Reservations must be made...