Word: chiseling
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Bernard Reder has, in a sense, been perennially out of fashion. Unlike most of his contemporaries, he has always disliked modeling in clay, preferring to work with hammer and chisel. Even today, though he now models in wax, the material that gives him the most spontaneity, he still approaches each work as if it were to be hewn out of a mass. "I am a sculptor," says he, "who enters the volume: always I conserve the block." This concept of "volumetricity" is basic to his art. Each statue, says Reder, must be seen from all sides and not just frontally...
...creating God the Father, he himself was God the Mother ... on his lonely truckle bed high in the heavens, going through parturition to deliver a race of immortals." Out of tons of this quarried prose rises The Agony and the Ecstasy-a kind of sculptorama fashioned with a slipped chisel...
Creator of the chisel-toed footwear is Christian Dior's imperious impresario of shoe design. Roger Vivier, 50, the man who brought the pointed-toe shoe to the U.S. and whom many merchandisers consider the top shoe designer. Vivier shrugs off the complete style change between the two shoes. "After all," he says, "in geometric forms there is only the round, the pointed and the square." Inspiration for the new style came from a pair of 100-year-old blunt-toed shoes. "I hate reminiscence," says Vivier. "I did not imitate; I was inspired...
...amateur shoe designer at 16, Vivier came to the U.S. in 1929 as a designer for Delman's, remained for 25 years. Seven years ago, Vivier returned to Paris as Dior's chief shoe designer. For his custom-made spring collection, he fashioned 70 new chisel-toed models that range in price from $120 to $300. Vivier also produced 60 models for his ready-to-wear line that sell from $17 to $30 a pair...
Already Parisian shoe stores are selling copies of Vivier's square-toed look for as little as $6 a pair. In the U.S., shoemen anticipate that the chisel-toed look will take longer to catch on. But by fall, fashion setters bet that the feet of U.S. women will show that they too have gone square...