Word: chittagong
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...start to what he hopes will be an overseas friendship and, eventually, a ticket out. Many visitors soon discover Dhaka is a place they too want to escape. If that's the case, head for Kamalpur train station for a six- or seven-hour train trip to Chittagong and the south coast ($8 first class). Or take the bus and scare yourself silly with the number of wrecks that litter the roadside...
...simple villages. Crossing countless bridges, you're soon deep into a virtual marshland. Ferries ply the many canals and waterways in a constant cycle of to and fro, back and forth. At the mouth of the Karnaphuli river lies Bangladesh's main port. The country's second city, Chittagong has been a center of trade and transport for 2,000 years. Porters lean almost prone as they haul carts piled 4 m high along the quay. Stroll the boulevards of decaying colonial storefronts and the pungent waterfront in the old city to trace the port's Portuguese and British history...
...Chittagong is a good base for traveling into the precipitous jungle hills bordering Burma to visit indigenous tribes (see Detour). But check on security: it was here insurgents took two Danes and a Briton hostage in February. (Soldiers freed them a month later.) You can also take a 20-minute motorcycle-taxi ride north to Sitakunda, one of the great graveyards of the sea. At first glance, it seems like just another coastal town on the way to somewhere else. But behind the row of one- and two-story homes is a stunning beachscape. The setting sun silhouettes scores...
When you've seen all there is to see around Chittagong, hop on a bus south to Cox's Bazar. Five hours later, the scent of salt water lets you know you've arrived at the longest beach in the world, a jungle-lined stretch of white sand that runs unbroken for 120 km. Women can forget about soaking up the rays in skimpy swimsuits unless they want to attract a whirling crowd of oglers. In Bangladesh, ladies take the surf in full sari. Muslim beach etiquette aside, Cox's Bazar has all the potential of a serene seaside getaway...
...openly term an enemy of the Muslim world. So let the U.N. assume responsibility for solving the crisis. We don't want to see any more pictures of war-torn Kosovo and the miserable plight of its people. We want the conflict properly settled soon. ALIYA SHAHNOOR AMEEN Chittagong, Bangladesh...