Word: cilantro
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...Aken of Miami's Norman's, who, for fun, concocted a series of raw recipes for this month's Art Culinaire magazine. "You have to be very creative to make your way through." One of Van Aken's recipes: tostadas made from raw flaxseed and topped with a cilantro-orange sauce...
...baby arugula salad ($8) was plain as advertised, but it was also all that the delicious mound of fresh greens needed. Only a better asiago could have improved this dish. The bibb lettuce salad ($7) was also impressive, with a nice dijon vinaigrette and good gorgonzola. The cilantro leaves seemed a bit large and obtrusive, but at least that made them easier to avoid. In addition to these two, the diminutive menu offers a basic iceberg wedge and two meat salads—one with grilled chicken, the other featuring bresaola...
...Consider the menu for President Clinton's last state dinner, for India's Prime Minister Atal Behari Vajpayee: Darjeeling tea, smoked poussin, chilled green pea and cilantro soup, marble potatoes, wild copper river salmon, red kuri squash and rice, bean ragout, Swiss chard custard, garlic-chanterelle emulsion, young greens and herb salad, heirloom tomatoes, dry aged cheese blossom and 25-year-old sherry dressing. Followed by mango and banner lotus, litchis and raspberry sauce, "a majestic tiger's delight," honey almond squares and chocolate coconut bars. It's not Indian takeout, but there are strong hints of the guest...
After some thought, he turned to Japanese recipes for inspiration. Heartbeat serves fluke sashimi, the transparent slices wrapped around cilantro and topped with sweet raw shrimp. Nischan sears his tuna tataki-style, drizzling the slices with vinaigrette and resting them on pieces of blood orange. A tea sommelier presents a lovely sencha, or Japanese green tea, to accompany the meal. "I've had a lot of skeptics give us big hugs," says Nischan, an affable father of five with a blond ponytail. "People say things like, I've got to eat sushi, I was at Peter Luger's [steak house...
...York chefs are happy to comply. Ruby Foo's serves up unabashedly inauthentic creations, like a grilled pineapple, kiwi and mango maki with a neon-green cilantro sauce. Monster Sushi features the fist-sized Monster Roll: eel, shrimp, avocado, asparagus, mushroom, flying-fish roe and spinach. Even more shocking: Sushi Samba combines salmon, shiso, jalapeño, red onions, eel and gooey melted mozzarella in its El Topo Roll (accompanied by spicy mayo and onion fritters...