Word: clos
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...Godot,” and as Henry himself notes, his “flip-book” would have two doors, “but no exit.” This conceit is reminiscent of the hellish, locked claustrophobia of Sartre’s “Huis Clos...
Other winemakers are becoming intrigued. After Marionnet created a cuvée from the abandoned Gamay de Bouze, young neighbor Julien Courtois of Clos de la Bruyère created his Elément-Terre of pure Gamay de Chaudenay. The two are undoubtedly the only cuvées of their kind. And using the traditional oxidative vin de voile method - in which casks are only partially filled, allowing yeast to grow on the wine's exposed surface - Courtois has transformed ancient Loire varietal Menu Pineau into an ethereal wine with a bouquet of hazelnut and mouth of caramelized apple...
...generation of artisan winemakers is intent on fixing Beaujolais' bruised reputation. Three years ago, Marie-Elodie Zighera invested everything in her old family vineyard, Clos de Mez in Fleurie, determined "to change the image of the wines of Beaujolais." Her belief in the region's fare stems from a "sumptuous" 1911 Beaujolais Cru Morgon she once sampled. "I've tasted what they could do back then, and that's the style I'm searching for," she says. Zighera patiently vinifies in tiny volumes with the Gamay grapes' natural yeasts to create her elegant, structured Fleurie La Dot. (See where...
Never mind soaring oil prices and the credit crunch. The champagne business has been effervescent lately, and the bar for high-end bubbly just got higher. After more than a decade of secrecy, Champagne Krug has uncorked an extraordinary new sparkler, the 1995 Krug Clos d'Ambonnay. Only 3,000 bottles were produced; retailing from between $3,000 and $7,000 per bottle, it is the most expensive champagne in the world. And I recently became one of the very few who will ever taste...
Even Olivier Krug, director of the house, admits that the single-vineyard Clos d'Ambonnay is one of "the simplest Krug wines to produce." As far as I am concerned, though, it is simply stunning, and I find myself thinking of every possible excuse to make a toast. Here's to Tuesday afternoons...