Word: cloth
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Making a good suit is a 200-step operation. It begins with "perching" or inspecting the 70 yard bolts of 60 inch wide cloth. A cold water shrinkage process follows, and then the wool dries over night on racks. This preserves its natural oils which would otherwise be harmed in drying more quickly, causing a more brittle fabric...
...process called "decating," the cloth passes over a steam box, shrinking it more, setting it, and putting on a smooth finish. About three yards of cloth (almost the amount required to make a suit) are lost in these processes which less expensive manufacturers ($50-65 suits) often...
...cloth, now ready for cutting, is spead in specified lengths on which patterns are laid and marked. Cutters then chop through 20-25 layers of fabric at a time...
...Devore All-American Look. Jackets, cut a good inch and a half shorter than the average, have square shoulders and single buttons. There is no handkerchief pocket-Sy hates bulges. Trousers have frontier pockets (like dungarees), no hip pockets, no cuffs, no belt (or a half belt in cloth), and are three inches trimmer than a standard size at the knee. Sy recommends leather boots to go with all this. The overall impression is a kind of subdued ostentation, part banker, part bookie, part ivy, part jivy. Everything is lined with paisley silk. Even the lint is lined...
Most important of all are the fabrics: tweeds and wools in soft, imaginative blends of pink, red, orange-most of them made up to U.S. specifications in cleanly styled suits and sportswear by Irish Designers Sybil Connolly, Kay Peterson, Sheila Mullally, Clodagh, Jack Clarke and Donald Davies. The rarest cloth in the lot is the 55 yards of tweed from the black sheep of Lord Dunraven of Adare (more will have to wait for next year's shearing). There are also brilliantly beautiful Donegal rugs and carpets in hand-knotted modern and traditional designs, chandeliers of Waterford glass...