Word: cluj
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Hajnal Varga, 43, an office manager in the Romanian university town of Cluj-Napoca, isn't complaining though. In the bad old days of communism, Romanian authorities discouraged the use of the Hungarian language in public and banned broadcasts of Hungarian media - even though a quarter of the town's population is ethnic Hungarian. Varga recalls hauling her family's black-and-white TV up a nearby hillside to pick up Hungarian football matches from across the border 150 km away. Last week Varga submitted her application for a Hungarian status card, which resembles a passport with a stylized crown...
...listen to good jazz in Warsaw, take in a performance at what is possibly the best puppet theater in the world in Prague, and go to an opera in Budapest for about what it would cost for an intermission drink anywhere in the West. In Cluj, the capital of the medieval kingdom of Transylvania in Romania, three decades of Ceausescu misrule have emptied shops and condemned people to a dreary life in ill-lighted, poorly heated apartments. But the Ceausescu era did not kill the arts. At a recent Rachmaninoff concert performed by the Cluj Philharmonic Orchestra, the pianist...
...Poland and pottery and glassware stores in Czechoslovakia. The Hungarian state record company presses high-quality classical records that can be bought for about half of what they would cost in the West. Hungarian wine is also worth the money, as is Bulgarian. In the villages west of Cluj, delicately embroidered tablecloths are sold for the equivalent of a few dollars...
...Liberal Party and the Social Democratic Party. All are in favor of a market economy and pluralism, while differing mainly on the pace and scope of reforms. "We would break with the past more quickly than the Front," says Mircea Vaida, a top official of the Liberal Party in Cluj. Agrees the Front's Badau Wittenbergen: "We want reforms but with proper guarantees against unemployment. It is not possible for us simply to copy Western ways...
...into the open last November, when a riot by 10,000 workers and residents in the industrial city of Brasov touched off a chain of smaller work stoppages and protests across the country. "For the first time in memory," says an experienced political observer in the Transylvanian city of Cluj, "there are signs that this crazy leadership is losing its grip...