Word: cochons
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...have become an inescapable part of our culture: Top Chef remains a ratings juggernaut, and The Food Network's Iron Chef likewise. Competition barbecue gets bigger every year. And even on the local level, every city is seeing more and more local cook-offs, from high-end ones like Cochon 555 that feature some of the best chefs in town, to pro-am affairs like the Cassoulet Contest or Meatball Slapdown, events I recently judged in New York...
...fresh, local gastronomic creations. The place is 10 years old, but thanks to the ever inventive chef-owner Normand Laprise, Toque! never bores. It's perhaps the best of the market-cuisine restaurants in the city. Less elegant but just as inventive is the newish Au Pied de Cochon (514-281-1114), where iconoclastic chef Martin Picard throws coronary caution to the wind with his heavy and delectable pork, venison, lamb, poultry and fish dishes in seasonal dress. His foie gras-poutine appetizer (pate atop a version of the Quebecois snack of fries, cheese curd and gravy) typifies his highbrow...
...that seemed certain about the drama of the turncoat's return was that the last act began at a casual bistro in bustling Georgetown, Au Pied de Cochon, where he went for dinner with a junior CIA security officer on Saturday night. As his escort was paying the check, Yurchenko suddenly asked a question. "What would you do if I got up and walked out? Would you shoot me?" Replied the CIA agent: "No, we don't treat defectors that way." "I'll be back in 15 or 20 minutes," Yurchenko said. Pause. "If I'm not, it will...
...wife but also many mistresses. He possessed, evidently, an orderly mind. Five days of the week, as I heard the story, he took a different mistress out to dinner, always dining on the same night with the same woman at the same restaurant. Thursday meant Babette and Le Cochon D'Or, or somesuch. Tuesday meant Francoise and Le Bistro de L'Ennuie. This was cosmopolitan but drearily bureaucratic polygamy, and I cannot help wondering if the women did not get terribly bored, not just with the Great Man, but with the schedule. Might they not have called one another...
...rises or falls by as much as 20% according to consumer demand. An IBM personal computer at the bar continuously recalculates the prices, and a printout from the machine provides steady commentary, like the bulletins on a stock ticker: "Relance de haddock" (Haddock on the rebound) or "Pieds de cochon en vif recul" (Pigs' feet dropping fast). The restaurant is a hit, explains one of the owners, because it reflects the latest rage in Paris: free enterprise...