Word: codfishing
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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...Random House; 669 pages; $22.50), informs us that it continues to expand. Judging by some of the newer dishes, that is not always for the better. This huge, handsome compendium, written for the Maine-based mail-order outfitter, is at its best with traditional specialties: rhubarb cakes and cobblers; codfish in chowders, cakes and Portuguese stews; and all the lobster, salmon and blueberry treats so rarely found elsewhere in the country. But the italicized new is the operative word, and interesting as the creations of young New England restaurant chefs may be, they water down the regional impact...
Unlike the eclectic, subtle cuisine at Claire, most restaurants have menus that stick close to or are adapted from native specialties. Coconut-covered shrimp, plantains, codfish and conch in various guises, and the marinated, then grilled jerk chicken and pork are among coast-to-coast favorites. Along with callaloo (a soup of crab meat, kale and pork) and Jamaican meat patties, the chef at Manhattan's Sugar Reef also dishes up the aptly named but pallid "trendy wrapped fish" (perch cooked in banana leaves). At the Sugar Shack in Los Angeles, Cuban Moors and Christians (black beans and white rice...
...pheasant with a subtle gamy flavor was well set off with pungent cranberries, and a mustard glaze added zest to sliced, rare roast filet of beef. Near misses were a too soupy stew of wild duck, the sweetbreads that tasted of overheated oil and both the gratin of salt codfish with a Parmesan cheese and soft-shell crabs that were impeccably prepared but stingingly salty...
...Villa Mozart, a trimly polished Jugendstil-designed hotel in Merano. He stirs the pasta pots for Operator Tony May, who masterminds Palio's spacious and vaguely Japanese- looking dining rooms. So far Hellrigl's esoteric offerings have been uneven. They may be as institutionally dull as his lackluster codfish with potatoes or the watery mushroom terrine or as wonderfully executed as the ricotta dumplings with truffle butter or a risotto with sweet red peppers. "It is a challenge to give Americans a taste of my style," Hellrigl says. "Some definitely do not like the food," admits May, "but they...
...Chicago, which opened last December. The look at Ba-Ba-Reeba! is lively and typical. The room is a jam- packed maze of tables, counters and bars, with all the tapas symbols in place: hanging hams and sausages, ropes of garlic and peppers, and sides of dried salt codfish. Noise, music, tiles and fake Spanish paintings (a not- quite- Picasso Guernica here, a playful pseudo-Miro there) attract yuppies of all ages, who begin to line up at 6:30 every evening. Among the more delectable possibilities: red beans with snails, a layered potato omelet, white beans with clams...