Word: coffeeless
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...smell of it from shops where they were grinding it, met one at every turn. So the myth that Italy is coffeeless explodes. They serve it intensely strong. No one in Naples or Genoa-our next stop-seemed the least concerned with what was brewing on the Brenner Pass. I mean by this that they were not buying papers or evincing any interest in any events if you asked them for their views...