Word: coleslaw
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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...Knopf; 408 pages; $24.95). More a social study than a mere cookbook, it includes the history and lore of dishes and Southern manners, a lengthy bibliography and suggested restaurants where travelers can sample typical fare. Although ingredients are not listed separately, recipes are clearly presented and range from simple coleslaw and iced tea, to elegant oysters Bienville and planked shad...
...finds meaning in coleslaw--"The coleslaw symbolizes the cosmos. The chopped cabbage is matter, the mayonnaise is the love of God holding everything together...." Much of his act consists in such grand observations, though he maintains that social comment is "an undercurrent...
...that there are many regional sandwich specialties. Philadelphia touts its cheese-steak, wafer-thin and watery beef with fried onions on a long roll, gooey with melted orange cheese. A barbecue sandwich in North Carolina means shredded pork in sauce piled on a hamburger bun with a mound of coleslaw. Maine and Massachusetts, with their abundance of fresh ocean shellfish, are celebrated for the lobster roll. Heaped with fresh chunks of briny lobster lightly bound with mayonnaise (celery is considered by most a heretical addition), it is usually made on hamburger or hot dog rolls, the latter being the vehicle...
...inspire a special lingo used by coffee-shop and deli personnel to relay orders to the sandwichmen behind the counter. Because pastrami can sound a lot like salami when shouted out in a busy, noisy dining room, it is known as "pistol." A "pistol with a shot" means that coleslaw will be added. If the cus- tomer wants his sandwich on rye toast, the waiter hollers "whiskey down." A pistol "dressed" indicates that Russian dressing is to be used, and anyone discovered eating pastrami that way in a New York delicatessen can expect to earn the sort of insult...
...asked me for a 'green card' or resident's permit," he says, "just a Social Security number." Like most illegals, Valenzuela simply made up a number. (He was later able to get a legitimate number after applying for legal residency.) He was caught once by the INS while packing coleslaw in central Los Angeles and was bused across the border, but he sneaked back through the fence in time for work the next morning...