Word: colicchio
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Dates: during 2010-2019
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...Batali, like Top Chef's Tom Colicchio, is going back to the kitchen. Lately, both men had been restaurateurs more than chefs, leaving the creation and execution of their dishes to talented proxies. But Batali rose to fame for his outrageous, over-the-top Italian cooking, and he has never seemed really happy to oversee an empire. Like Colicchio, who started cooking at Craft on Tuesdays and is now back running Colicchio & Sons in New York City, Batali wants to cook. He's working on the menus for six new restaurants at Eataly, the massive Italian food emporium that...
...help from guys like Mike Toscano, who will be running the Eataly meat restaurant, and Mark Ladner, who runs Del Posto, Batali's upscale, special-occasion restaurant. Jean Georges can't be in his namesake restaurant every day, but his guy there, Mark Lapico, can. The same goes for Colicchio, with James Tracey at Craft. They aren't the big names, but they channel the big names and make the food come alive. And for those other chefs on the Beard list, the ones who are creating fantastic, blooming bistros in Portland, Ore., Nashville and Savannah, Ga.? Someday soon they...
...laughable or a rip-off are that the chef totally believes in it and that it celebrates a very real value: the value of fresh fish. It's easy to make fun of the New Naturalism, but at its heart is an almost Shinto-like reverence for nature. Tom Colicchio, who helped found the modern green-market-gastronomy movement at Gramercy Tavern and then Craft, says, "Some people think manipulating food is the job a chef does. It isn't. Flavor comes first. You treat it with respect and keep its natural taste. I want people to say, 'I never...