Word: colombians
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...February 2003, three American contractors crash-landed in the Colombian jungle and were captured by FARC, the country's long-lasting Marxist rebel group. For the next five years, the three were held hostage--many of their captors little more than brainwashed youths with guns--facing snakes, insects, disease and constant movement from one dank jungle camp to the next. But the character earning the most scorn in their lengthy account turns out to be a fellow captive. French-Colombian politician Ingrid Betancourt, whose rescue in the same mission that freed the authors made world headlines, comes...
...Switch, which features a contemporary surf-and-turf menu but whose selling point is that its walls automatically change out like set decorations to give the room an entirely different look every so often. Impressive, if pointless. There's a steak place called Botero that displays works by the Colombian artist and a more modest joint called Café Society. We dined at Wynn's signature restaurant, Sinatra, named for ole you-know-who, a Wynn pal. If you like Sinatra's music, the restaurant is a calm, beautiful setting in which to enjoy it. Better yet, the chef, Theo...
...which are opening branches there soon. The first time I visited the city - on a business stopover in 2004 - it had a handful of high-rise buildings. Now it has 48, with dozens more under construction. Right now the Cartagena landscape is still shaped by local stores and galleries, Colombian cooking, and the open, curious hospitality of people who haven't yet dealt with pushy hordes of foreign tourists. But they're yearning for the boom that is about to come. At Café del Mar - the Cartagena branch of the famed Ibiza beach bar - a bartender quizzed...
...postcard-perfect white stretches for which the Caribbean is famous - with snorkeling, scuba-diving and a range of restaurants. I snuck onto the Sofitel's private island for a luxurious, leisurely lunch at the hotel's gourmet restaurant under the mangrove trees. Another upscale island destination popular with the Colombian upper classes is Punta Iguana, which feels like a mini-South Beach. Less-expensive day-trip options dotted around the archipelago range from Colombia's version of a swim-up bar to a variety of touristy beaches equipped with cooking huts where freshly caught fish is simply but succulently prepared...
...which is La Vitrola (Calle Baloco #2-01; +575-660-07-11), a classic bistro serving Cuban food, where waiters and diners usually end up dancing on the tables before the night is over. Another hot spot, Palma (Calle del Curato #38-137; +575-660-27-96), has a Colombian-Italian fusion menu and sits across from the luxury Charleston Hotel, an old Santa Teresa convent that has been fully restored. But the restaurant is so wannabe chic that its stark, monochromatic décor nearly overwhelms the excellent food. After dinner, the party continues. One can dance...