Word: confits
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Dates: during 2000-2009
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Take txipiron. Traditional tapas bars serve the tiny squid simply grilled. At Aloña-Berri the txipiron is stuffed with onion confit, artfully suspended over a thimbleful of seafood-laced martini, garnished with a fragile pane of caramelized sugar scattered with onion sprouts and red pepper, and accompanied by a cube of toasted squid-ink rice. The bar offers a 10-course haute cuisine feast in miniature for a minuscule price of $35, but don't miss the pigeon baztela cooked slowly with sweet spices, raisins and rose petals, then wrapped in a crisp filo pastry. Another standout...
...teau Saint-Martin in Carcassonne, Rodriguez faithfully recreates cassoulet à l'ancienne, with white beans from the village of Mazères, aged ham, pork rind, pig's foot and knuckle meat. And in season, Rodriguez adds (on request) the authentic Carcassonne touch: wild partridge in lieu of duck confit...
...there every day. Luckily, at his lively restaurant Au Petit Gazouillis, Alain van Ees Beeck has been cooking Castelnaudary cassoulet from scratch for nearly 20 years. With peppery Montagne Noire sausage, creamy Lauragais beans - slow-cooked with ham hock for a rich, smoky taste - and the farm-raised duck confit famous in Castelnaudary, Van Ees Beeck can boast an authenticity no mass-produced cassoulet can match...
...elegant Le Cantou in Toulouse, agrees, but says to assure the dish's longevity a chef must "adapt these ancient recipes to our modern lifestyle." He adds fresh Toulouse sausage as tradition there demands, but uses a lighter, sweeter Tarbes bean, finely sliced pork rind and leaner duck confit, and trades cassoulet's typical black crust, the result of hours spent in the oven, for a lightly browned one. It's not his grandmother's cassoulet, but you won't need a nap after finishing it, either...
...dinner did not disappoint. To start off, David Myers of Sona in Los Angeles concocted a reception of duck confit eggrolls topped with lime pickle aioli and peekytoe crab beignets, all washed down with Dom Perignon Brut 1999. Then came the main courses. Adria prepared Ostras Con Pistachio Verde y Citricos (oysters with green pistachios and citrus; Wakada presented Ravioli of Asahi Crab with Crab Terrine and Finger Lime; Daniel Boulud (of Restaurant Daniel in New York City) produced Wild Scottish Grouse with Sarawak Pepper Cromesquis; and Thomas Keller came out with Four Story Hill Farm Cuisse de Poularde with...