Word: contr
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Dates: during 2000-2009
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...Merlot, or any other single grape variety - one of the most popular New World innovations. And under a regulation passed in the early 1990s, they are even forbidden from using their grapes to make table wine; the only production allowed in Bordeaux is of high-quality appellation d'origine contrôlée (AOC). "They tied their own hands behind their back," says Christopher Carson, former ceo of the European arm of drinks firm Constellation, who played a key role in bringing Australian wine to the U.K. Over the course of 15 years, he watched the market share...
...year and found a bottle of imported Vietnamese fish sauce in a supermarket. "The label said Phu Quoc, but when I looked closer, it said 'Made in Thailand' on it," recalls Tinh. "I was horrified." France recently signed an agreement giving Nuoc Mam Phu Quoc an appellation d'origine contrôlée, the same status given to Cham-pagne vintners. Which just proves what nuoc mam lovers have always believed: a good fish sauce is as precious as a fine wine...
...expected to govern a country that has 246 kinds of cheese?" asked Charles de Gaulle back in 1962. It's a good thing no one got the General onto the subject of wine. France has no fewer than 466 different Appellations d'Origine Contrôlée, plus some 150 Vins de Pays. This hardly mattered when the French drank most of their wine themselves; complexity, after all, is part of being French. But with adults consuming half the wine they did in the '60s, producers are having to look elsewhere. And they're discovering that foreign drinkers often...
France's problems aren't just at the bottom of the market. In a report to the Agriculture Ministry last year, beverage expert Jacques Berthomeau singled out the more refined AOC sector. "Beneath the shelter of our Appellations d'Origine Contrôlée hide a number of wines which are mediocre, if not unworthy of the appellation," wrote Berthomeau. Widely assumed to be a badge of quality, the aoc label guarantees little more than the place where a wine was produced. Quality controls introduced in 1974 are administered by growers themselves: 98% of wines submitted pass the test...