Word: cookbooks
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...American cooking is the theme of The Trellis Cookbook by Marcel Desaulniers (Weidenfeld & Nicolson; $25). Unlike most recipes from restaurant chefs, these from the Trellis Restaurant in Colonial Williamsburg can be managed by mere mortals with only two hands. Some dishes have many steps (grilled smoked lamb with artichokes and slab bacon on fresh-thyme fettuccine), but Desaulniers outlines how to organize ahead. Corn and tomato fritters, roast loin of pork with walnut butter and a chocolate-praline ice cream terrine are winners...
...about whether Elvira: Mistress of the Dark was just an excuse for merchandising; Elvira ain't exactly the Care Bears. Still, if you went to the Law School Film Society's screenings last night, you had the option of picking up Elvira t-shirts, studded wristbands and even a cookbook inspired by the movie, featuring Elvira's recipes for "Transylvanian Ghoulash," "Bedeviled Eggs" and "Welsh Rare-Bats...
...their confectionary skills. The curriculum includes seminars devoted to such succulent topics as breads and doughs, sugar, cake decorating and, during this week, the complex and artful world of chocolate. The presiding guru is Herr Doktor Albert Kumin, 76, the Swiss dessert genius. Although he has never published a cookbook, in the rarefied world of professional chefs Kumin is regarded as a viscount of chocolate, a prince of pastry. He is the creator of the dessert menu at Manhattan's Four Seasons and a former White House pastry chef...
Down-home at 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue is the theme of The White House Family Cookbook, by Henry Haller (Random House; 441 pages; $19.95). Executive chef at that august address for 21 years, the Swiss-born Haller retired in October, just as this reverential book was coming off the presses. Most of the recipes are for hearty, homey family favorites that reflect the regional backgrounds of Presidents from Lyndon Johnson (who favored Texas-style chili con carne, lamb hash and deer sausage), through Gerald Ford (lusty, German-influenced fare like sweet-and-sour stuffed cabbage, apple pancakes and a revolting curried...
Finally, no sampling of cookbooks would be complete without one of the genre's inevitable celebrity offerings. A typically vacuous entry this season is The Jill St. John Cookbook (Random House; 259 pages; $19.95), a bit of fluff that begins with the actress's expression of gratitude to Eastman Kodak for providing film and processing. "Thanks, Kodak!" she says, and well she might, for the collection of glistening photographs, mostly of the monthly food columnist herself, are this volume's main, albeit limited, attraction...