Word: cookbooks
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Recipes described in Prudhomme's cookbooks usually read better than they taste in his New Orleans restaurant, K-Paul's. The Prudhomme Family Cookbook (Morrow; 446 pages; $19.95) dishes up "old-time Louisiana recipes by the eleven Prudhomme brothers and sisters." This richly fragrant fare, based on lusty ingredients and strong Cajun seasonings, is not for dieters or the faint-palated. Jambalayas, boudins and gumbos abound. Prudhomme not only contributed his blackened-redfish recipe to Claiborne's book but also repeats it here, along with far more appropriate recipes for blackening chicken, hamburgers and pork chops, a technique that relies...
Several of the more valuable works are devoted to the food of the American South, a region that provides the nation's richest and most colorful local cuisine. The best entry is Southern Food, by John Egerton (Knopf; 408 pages; $24.95). More a social study than a mere cookbook, it includes the history and lore of dishes and Southern manners, a lengthy bibliography and suggested restaurants where travelers can sample typical fare. Although ingredients are not listed separately, recipes are clearly presented and range from simple coleslaw and iced tea, to elegant oysters Bienville and planked shad...
Those who like to entertain with "slightly different" dishes should be pleased by Gene Hovis's Uptown Down Home Cookbook (Little, Brown; 235 pages; $17.95). This culinary memoir is built around the foods of the author's North Carolina childhood, but it also encompasses recipes that Hovis developed in a career as a New York City food stylist and caterer -- chicken breasts in orange-cognac sauce, or a watercress, cucumber and avocado soup...
Traveling southwest, we come to Dallas and the elegant hotel the Mansion on Turtle Creek, whose chef, Dean Fearing, offers The Mansion on Turtle Creek Cookbook (Weidenfeld & Nicolson; 287 pages; $25). Fearing has adapted the spicy Indian-Mexican-Spanish influences of the region to fashionable nouvelle creations like lobster taco with yellow-tomato salsa and jicama salad. His intricate arrangements and subtle desert colors make his creations as intriguing to the eye as to the palate, although nearly impossible for the average home cook to duplicate...
...blueberry treats so rarely found elsewhere in the country. But the italicized new is the operative word, and interesting as the creations of young New England restaurant chefs may be, they water down the regional impact of the book. Judith Jones, one of the country's most respected cookbook editors, provides recipes that are explicit and complete. Her husband Evan, an accomplished writer on American food, makes the travel and history narratives equally tempting...