Word: cooks
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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...Cook an elaborate snack in the toaster oven. Go out and buy extravagant ingredients if necessary. Your mind can't work well on an empty stomach...
...concoction made with Ritz crackers and melted cheese. It should be noted that the Sterns and Fussell give quite different recipes for New Orleans red beans and rice, yet both are credited to Buster Holmes, operator of the famous French Quarter greasy spoon. Quite possibly the old master cook never makes that dish the same way twice, which is why there probably cannot be, as the Sterns suggest, a last word on the subject...
...Clancy is not only a teacher and a chef with his own restaurant, he is also a born explainer. He has an extremely catholic taste, an attribute immediately apparent in John Clancy's Favorite Recipes -- A Personal Cookbook (Atheneum; $21.95). In a book well suited to the relatively inexperienced cook, he includes such simple, solid fare as hamburgers, braised shoulder of lamb, German vegetable beef soup and French crullers. He gives meat loaf some style by way of jalapeno peppers, tenderizes and flavors broiled duck with a ginger-and-wine-vinegar marinade and imparts a herbaceous Provence fragrance...
...that time of year. Among her best: corn cakes with creme fraiche and caviars, chimney-smoked lobster, roast quail with savoy cabbage and kasha, wild mushroom tarts and such knockout desserts as macadamia nut tarts, lemon curd mousse and chocolate bread pudding. It would be a pity to cook by this book, thereby soiling pages with dabs of butter and egg yolk. Better photocopy recipes and keep the book on the coffee table, where it belongs...
Near-amateur enthusiasts can provide valuable books on aspects of food dearest to their hearts and palates. Two cases in point: Linda Merinoff's The Glorious Noodle -- A Culinary Tour Around the World (Poseidon; $16.95) and Margaret Leibenstein's The Edible Mushroom -- A Gourmet Cook's Guide (Fawcett Columbine; $14.95). Merinoff, a journalist and caterer, is obviously beguiled by all things pasta -- Italian, Greek, Hungarian, Israeli, African, Alsatian or Asian. Her work brims with tempting dumplings, noodles in mild and spicy sauces, one-dish soups and stews bolstered with some form of wheat-, bean- or rice-flour noodles. Lore...