Word: couscous
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...really fair to say that Wally le Saharien makes the best couscous on the planet, because his is like no one else's. It was born, like Wally himself, "somewhere in the Sahara," and even though he is now encamped on the lower flanks of Paris' Montmartre, to eat chez Wally is to feast with a desert prince...
...those accustomed to the typical North African couscous of Paris (moist yellow semolina granules doused with spicy stew - fast, cheap and filling), Wally's $55 Tuareg banquet is a camel of a different color. Diners have one choice: red wine or white. The set menu is a cavalcade of flavors so perfectly balanced that it hasn't changed in 30 years. First is chorba, a spicy tomato soup rich enough to restore life even after a day fighting the hordes at Versailles. A refined pastilla, a sweet-savory pigeon pastry dusted with cinnamon and sugar, floods the senses with visions...
Wally's cooking method is designed to minimize the amount of water and wood needed to render the grains to perfection, but couscous is still an extravagance in the desert. And for Parisian couscous seekers, Wally Le Saharien is a rare oasis. 36, Rue Rodier...
...most, Arabian cuisine conjures up convivial images of heaping portions of everything from meat tagine and curried vegetable couscous to various succulent takes on lamb. Not so for Ingo Maass. The German-born executive chef at Dubai's JW Marriott is out to change the traditional culinary take on the Arab world in a cookbook titled Dubai: New Arabian Cuisine, written by Lutz Jäkel. Along with his counterparts, Frenchman Christian Jean, Egyptian Amgad Zaki and Syrian Khalil Zakhem, Maass - who has built a reputation for successfully inventing new takes on old standards during his decade-long tenure...
...virtue of the slave trade, Senegalese cuisine was one of the key influences on African-American cooking. Senegal's Atlantic coastline ensures an abundance of seafood?grouper, monkfish and sea bream are common?while peanuts, millet and cassava are harvested from the central savanna area. Given Morocco's proximity, couscous is almost as widespread as rice?so are baguettes and Dijon mustard, legacies of French colonial rule. Sample this melting pot at Chez Mimi, tel: (221) 823 9788, or Keur Ndeye, tel: (221) 821 4973, both in the capital, Dakar. But if you want something that's all Senegalese, order...