Word: couscous
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...square is transformed into a smorgasbord of street food. A cloud of smoke hangs over endless rows of food stalls, each one grilling, boiling, frying or steaming some tasty morsel. Chefs in white aprons scoop, slice and serve like doctors trying to cure world hunger, one bowl of couscous at a time...
...food onstage is sumptuous and real, from the thimble-size beef tartare amuse-bouche to the spiced Moroccan lamb with couscous--pronounced, as the Martha Stewart-style hostess is careful to note, "coush-coush." The dinner guests are an array of gabby intellectuals loosely modeled on real-life intellectuals--a Christopher Hitchens-type British lefty, a Tom Clancy-like novelist with pro-war views, a Middle East expert who recalls the late Edward Said. They sit around a long oval table, with a chandelier listing overhead and helicopters whirring periodically, ominously, offstage. After heated debates on everything from Palestinian violence...
...directly to dessert. After the meze, the entrees seem oversized and repetitive. The Melkha ($12.95), an eggplant stuffed with olives, spinach, and feta cheese, is aggressively salty. No one at our table would take more than a bite. Grilled meat is just that—grilled, plain, boring. The couscous ($8.95) is just acceptable, surprising since this is the staple of the Maghreb. Ideally, each grain of couscous should be distinct and fluffy, having been steamed and re-steamed over water (but never submerged) in a couscousière, a special implement designed for this purpose. I spied a couscousi?...
...getting deeper. As we climb to Indian Post Office, the highest point on the trail at 7,033 ft., the drifts are 15 ft. and up. We have covered 13 miles in soft snow, and we barely have enough energy to make dinner. After a meal of chicken and couscous, I sit on a rock outcrop on top of the ridge. There is no light visible in any direction, not even another campfire. For four days we do not see another human being. We are isolated in a way that mixes fear with exultation. In our imagination we have finally...
...Mediterranean influences. Elsewhere, the round-the-world tour continues with Caribbean appetizers, French cheeses and Indian desserts. In the Blue Room’s brave new world, Asian vegetables with soba noodles, ginger, soy and sesame ($17) can turn up next to braised lamb shank with dates and almonds, couscous and harissa ($22). This is not mere “American eclectic” or “world fusion,” but an attempt at true culinary globalization...