Word: coutureâ
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...creating costumes is obvious; the business, obscure and confused. The haute couture??? must risk its millions of francs of profit upon the artistic fecundity of 40 or 50 designers. The wages of 300,000 cutters and sewers, 150,000 embroiderers, glove makers, bag makers, hundreds of thousands of copyists the world over depend upon their creations. If they fail, the price is instant oblivion. If they succeed the rewards may be as great as those of Charles Frederick Worth, draper's assistant who revolutionized the haute couture in the 1850's and whose sons and grandsons have prospered mightily...
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