Word: crabs
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...been pretty happy to discover, on at least half the dinner menus I've scanned in the past year, entrées topped with a poached egg: halibut, salmon, pasta, chorizo, ratatouille, tuna tartare, mushrooms, chicken, crab cakes, asparagus, salad. And it always works, adding a richness and silkiness to everything, a protein-on-protein, Atkins-era overindulgence that makes me psyched to be an American. "Hey, this is delicious, but wouldn't it be better if we plopped some bird ovum...
...anything emerged from last week's Madrid Fusion, the celebrated international conference of the epicurean avant garde, it was that algae is in vogue: Ferran Adri?, the founding genius of the new conceptual movement among chefs, wrapped a crab torso in it. Angel Leon, used it to clarify stock. And at the Porto Mui?os booth in the exhibition hall, the lechugas del mar sold like- well, hotcakes. But apart from a predominance of sea vegetables, it was hard to detect clear trends at Madrid Fusion. As some of the world's top chefs gathered to show off their stuff...
...competition requires each chef, aided by an assistant, to complete two platters of food, one featuring a meat course (Bresse chicken, this year), the other showcasing seafood (Norwegian white halibut and king crab), and three side dishes--all sufficient for 14 servings--within just a 5 1/2-hr. period. The food is judged on presentation and, of course, taste. Competitors train for the cooking challenge with the single-minded discipline usually found in élite athletes. For Kaysen, this means heading to the kitchen on his day off to sharpen skills like butchering a whole chicken. He began practicing...
...time the U.S. has a chance to make it into the top three. But like politics, he notes, nothing is certain. "I liken Gavin to the Barack Obama of gastronomic figures," he observes. "He's not fully tested, yet he clearly impresses people." Lyons--and that chicken, halibut and crab--awaits...
...John Derian Co. The East Village boutique is a treasure trove of flora and fauna, much of it displayed with a modern wink. Elephants, right, monkeys and other wildlife stampede across a series of square decoupage glass platters. Cache pots display delicate branches, top, and a vibrant crab is the centerpiece of an oval plate, above. tel: (1-212) 677-3917; www.johnderian.com