Word: crabs
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...Mosca's. August is vacation month, so delegates will alas miss a sui generis Creole-Italian cuisine in a no-frills roadhouse about 30 minutes from the French Quarter. Classics include cracked crab marinated in Italian vegetable pickles; oysters baked with garlic, parsley and bread crumbs; barbecued shrimp heady with rosemary; hand-rolled spaghetti with butter, olive oil and garlic; and homemade fennel-sweet Italian sausage...
...Commander's Palace. This temple of nouvelle Creole cookery in the graceful Garden District is best enjoyed in the leafy upstairs Garden Room rather than the drab downstairs. Don't miss oysters Trufant, poached and glossed with cream and caviar; crab-meat ravigote sparkling with a Creole mustard dressing and capers; velvety, thick turtle soup; fillets of trout with crunchy pecans; roast quail with a crab-and-shrimp stuffing; and hot bread- pudding souffle...
...palm trees and piped-in swing music for dancing. Service is a bit rough around the edges, but the inventive Creole- Cajun dishes are generally successful. Among the best: sauteed sweetbreads with poached quail eggs, crayfish ravioli with scallops and tarragon sauce, and a basil-scented red snapper and crab meat with lemon-Cognac sauce that is this city's only good papillote creation...
...Gautreau's. One of the new restaurants in the Uptown residential area, this is an urbane cafe with oxblood walls and white embossed-tin ceiling. Best dishes: batter-fried eggplant filled with shrimp and crab meat, and rabbit * fillet with sun-dried tomatoes...
Washington State fisheries report finding tumors in the livers of English sole, which dwell on sediment. Posted signs warn, BOTTOMFISH, CRAB AND SHELLFISH MAY BE UNSAFE TO EAT DUE TO POLLUTION. Lest anyone fail to get the message, the caution is printed in seven languages: English, Spanish, Vietnamese, Cambodian, Laotian, Chinese and Korean...