Word: crawfish
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Dates: during 1970-1979
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...French farmer-fishermen, who live in the bayou country south and west of New Orleans. Except for Guidry's left arm, Cajuns are known mostly by hearsay. They are reputed to play strange-sounding accordion music, make a mean gumbo, and generally be as colorful as the crawfish in their bayous. The rumors are right, as Journalist William Rushton demonstrates in the first popular survey of Cajun culture...
Much of the Cajuns' singular culture lingers on today, despite the invasion of their backwater over the past 30 years by public roads and private oil entrepreneurs. Gumbo and jambalaya still simmer on Cajun stoves and are dished up at local crawfish festivals (Rushton includes recipes for the adventurous). Men like James Daisy still rise at 3 a.m. to dredge for oysters: "Out there's where I live," he says of the endless marshes...
...book unto themselves. It so happens that Craig Claiborne and Pierre Franey of the New York Times have produced just such a volume, Veal Cookery (Harper & Row; 229 pages; $10). No meat is more succulent than the creamy pink flesh of milk-fed calf, whether married to crabmeat, crawfish, shrimp, lobster or tuna, or stewed, stuffed, sauced, roasted or grilled, or divided into what some call the ''odd parts." such as brains, sweetbreads and soup bones. Indeed, le petit veau is a centerpiece of all the great cuisines save the Chinese. The book's most notable contribution...
...pompano are the aristocrats of fishdom. The Gulf Coast's pearly shrimp, eaten raw or smothered in the fiery remoulade sauce of a New Orleans restaurant, are as memorable as Proustian madeleines. No other cuisine in the world has so amply shared or sherried a dish like Southern crawfish bisque. Inland, Southern hams and bacons are unrivaled in the Western world...
Stories about crawfish racing in Louisiana, displaced Hillbillies in Detroit, a Baptist convention in Georgia, the Elks Club in Nebraska, mushball in Sheboygan, Wisconsin: these are the "human interest" features, still looking a mite incongruous beside the troubled headlines, that bob up on the front of the second section, or snake around the Gimbel's and Macy's advertisements. These are the stories that, according to the book's Preface, "do not break," but "trickle, seep, and ooze. The Times is covering the ooze...