Word: creams
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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Zogby talked freely about the problems of using natural flavors. Real vanilla beans add flecks to the mix, and some customers used to the cheaper artificial flavor vanillin complain of dirty ice cream. Real mint flavor is as clear as gin, not green. A blend of pumpkin and squash tastes more like pumpkin than pumpkin alone does, but squash ice cream sounds dreadful, so the firm's flavorers had to work harder and stick with pumpkin. Most cherry ice cream contains bright red bits of cherries that have been embalmed, as maraschinos are-bleached white with formaldehyde and then...
...appealing "Hey, why don't we ..." quality to such stories. Gary Shaefer and Barbara Fingold were practicing family therapists in western Massachusetts a few years ago; they suspected that cuts in social-service funding lay ahead. In 1978 they bought Bart's, an older ice-cream parlor in Northampton, Mass., a hungry college town, where Herrell was to set up his new place two years later. They are now doing very well handing out what might be considered a kind of therapy. Their customers are students, artists, shopkeepers and lawyers, and some of them, says Shaefer, come...
...Famous, a twelve-seat ice-cream parlor in the Glover Park section of Washington, D.C., has, in the words of one fascinated observer, "intentionally or unintentionally created a kind of hole-in-the-wall chic." It sure has; suburbanites frequently drive an hour each way to stand in a 20-min. line in front of Bob's and pay 950 for a cone and $3.75 for a quart of apple-peanut butter, banana mango or mocha almond. People buy Bob's Kahlua for $17 per gal., and some have spent $40 to airfreight it across the country. Owner...
...cream tasting is a notoriously erratic business. Not only subjectivity but sheer numbness is a problem. "Your taste buds get so cold they barely function on about the eighth lick," I.A.I.C.M. Spokesman Witte explains. "Your nose still works O.K., but ice cream doesn't smell much...
Industry conservatives point out that not all natural flavors are vivid enough (Mattus has failed so far to make a peach ice cream that he considers good, and Häagen-Dazs will not sell peach until he succeeds). Raising butterfat much above the 16% or 17% level can produce a greasy mix that for some reason resists flavoring. Staleness kills ice cream, and natural brands, such as Breyers or Häagen-Dazs, to some extent become unnatural when they are shipped across the country and stored for too many weeks. Ice crystals form and texture coarsens when...