Word: creams
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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Rich and vivid, Italian-style ice cream invades and conquers...
...historians agree that the future King Henry II of France married Italy's Catherine de Médicis for her ice cream recipes in 1533. Some say he liked her pasta more. In any case, the Italians lost a daughter but not a dish. They have remained, to this day, among the world's supreme ice cream makers. Americans, who are the world's supreme ice cream gulpers (15 quarts per capita per annum), are only now beginning to make that luscious discovery en masse. In the heat-racked summer of '83, people are screaming...
Jell-ah-toe! It even sounds like a minor Italian poet. Actually, the Italian word for ice cream means nothing more lyrical than "frozen." But at its subtle, supercreamy best, it is as different from the standard American variety as Soave is from 7Up. The best gelato, as adapted to American tastes, is much richer in butterfat, the soul of ice cream, than the familiar commercial American brands. Little or no air is pumped into it, making for a deep, intensified taste. And the flavors, natural and innocent of chemicals, can seem, singly or in combination, as impassioned...
There is yet another newcomer to the frozen scene: tofutti. As its ungainly name suggests, it has a powdered soy base, no lactose, butterfat or cholesterol, and contains only 128 calories per 4-oz. scoop, vs. as much as 325 for a premium dairy ice cream and 280 for gelato. A sellout among celebs and fast-trackers from Manhattan to Honolulu, this noncream ice cream, which comes in five flavors, actually tastes good. Best of the batch: banana pecan...
Still, for the ice cream mainliner, the name of the game this summer is that calorific Italian stuff. One of the biggest gelato wholesalers, Tartufo Italgelateria, Inc., of San Gabriel, Calif., supplies elegant restaurants and hotels nationally; its gelato will make its debut this month in supermarkets in the Southeast. Next week another variety, called Geláre will be test-marketed by Borden, Inc., in Houston, Dallas, Columbus and Pittsburgh, with an eye to eventual distribution throughout its 28-state market. "This is the best-tasting product we have tried," says Robert Kirby, a Borden's group vice...