Word: creme
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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...chefs have shown more culinary flair than Rosenzweig. Among her classic dishes: chimney-smoked lobster glossed with tarragon butter and buttressed against a crisp cake of threadlike Chinese noodles; roast quail with rhubarb bedded down on dandelion greens; and homespun corn cakes topped with caviar and creme fraiche. Similarly, Joyce Goldstein, chef-owner of the stylish Square One in San Francisco, creates an aura of flavor unity on a menu that may offer crusty Italian bread, Russian mushroom soup, pungent Korean steak and a very American spiced persimmon pudding...
...French Culinary Institute in New York City's SoHo district. A recent $18 prix fixe lunch began with a light Roquefort souffle, which was followed by a moist salmon fillet in chervil sauce, a delicate lamb ragout and a green salad, and ended with a textbook-perfect creme brulee...
...higher profit percentage in desserts than in most appetizers or entrees. "Waiters also like to offer pastries because that raises the check and, therefore, the tip that is a percentage of the total," observes Dieter Schorner, the gifted pastry chef whose velvety chocolate cake and supple, sugar-glazed creme brulee have caused many a dieter's downfall at such restaurants as Le Cirque in Manhattan and Potomac in Washington...
Ready for a change of scenery, four of us trooped over to Casablanca (40 Brattle St.). Beneath the Brattle Theater, down the hall from Cafe Algiers, Casa B's and the Boathouse are about as similar as creme de menthe...
...diners who care less about being educated or entertained than being superbly fed, there are a growing number of upscale restaurants serving exotic delicacies with a Latin twist. At Dallas' luxurious Routh Street Cafe, Chef Stephen Pyles offers the ultimate in cross-cultural fare: lobster enchiladas with red pepper creme fraiche and caviar, and fillet of salmon with ancho chili tomatilloes. At Tamayo's, a $2.5 million restaurant located on the edges of East Los Angeles, appetizers include grilled marinated octopus and onion on corn tortillas, followed by such entrees as baked marinated milk-fed kid with ancho and arbol...