Word: crusting
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Unlike previous generations of upper-crust Americans who savored a postgraduate European tour as the ultimate finishing school, today's adventurers are picking places far more exotic. They are seeking an escape from Western culture, rather than further refinement to smooth their entry into society. Katmandu, Dar es Salaam, Bangkok: these are the trendy destinations of many young daydreamers. Susan Costello, 23, a recent Harvard graduate, voyaged to Dharmsala, India, to spend time at the headquarters of the Tibetan government-in-exile, headed by the Dalai Lama. Costello decided to explore Tibetan culture "to see if they really had something...
...cotton- soft white loaf into a grocery cart. More and more shoppers these days are trekking to local bakeries and specialty shops -- often braving long lines and empty bins -- in search of gourmet loaves of all sizes and shapes: rosemary, garlic and poppy wands with a crackling-hard crust; dense bricks dotted with specks of flax, sunflower and sesame seeds; onion sourdough baguettes; and mammoth 4-lb. pumpkin-like affairs made from live, wild cultures. "Bread is being rescued from oblivion," says Michael London, owner of Rock Hill Bakehouse in Greenwich, N.Y. "It's as if it had been locked...
Food mavens see the upper-crust movement as part of a growing American interest in fine cuisine. "About 15 years ago, a food revolution began in this country, starting with the main course," says Eli Zabar, whose New York City gourmet shop, E.A.T., makes 4,000 chewy sourdough baguettes daily. "Then it moved to the appetizer, then dessert. We have finally gotten around to bread. It's happening everywhere." Jerome Kliejunas, owner of Chicago's Jerome's cafe, agrees. "In the past," he says, "bread was seen as an accompaniment to other foods and in the background...
...rise, then cut into pieces, allowed to rise again, molded into final form, "proofed" in one last rising, baked and cooled. (Commercial breads may sit through only one or two short risings.) Baking is also subject to a host of vagaries. A humid day, for example, can wreck the crust on a sourdough...
...their very simplicity, they were a superb matrix for the changing effects of light and color. Sometimes Monet's grainstacks glow like furnaces, their shadow lines breaking into excited flurries of crimson and blue; sometimes they are dirty brown, between the inert pewter sky of winter and the white crust of snow...