Word: crusts
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Admittedly, the pre-Metropolis conception of veal scaloppini was not appealing, bringing to mind visions of ladies in pearls at Italian restaurants in the 1960s. However, after diplomatically describing a pommery crusted salmon served over crème fraiche and cucumbers, our server said that the scaloppini ($22) was “to die for.” She was right. The first bite of veal made my eyes widen and eyelashes flutter. The salty tang of capers and lemon in a peppery beurre noisette was balanced by a creamy potato, leek and asiago gratin, served in a little inverted...
...that all? As a matter of fact, it is. With its upper-crust settings and century-spanning scope, Any Human Heart invites comparison to Ian McKewan's Atonement. But while McKewan's novel is a work of elaborate, formal artifice, Any Human Heart is determinedly, even defiantly, formless. There is no overarching story here, not even a last-minute revelation or the standard old man's epiphany to tie it all together. Like any really honest diary, Any Human Heart is just a random, jumbled heap of days, most immensely amusing, some unbearably sad, but together they carry the full...
...picture is beginning to emerge of the Bush plan as a windfall for the upper crust, it's the correct one. Fewer than 600,000 individuals and families with incomes of more than half a million dollars--less than one-half of 1% of all tax-return filers--collect 29% of the dividends that would become tax free...
Stuffing New research suggests that bread crust may contain a cancer-fighting antioxidant, pronyl-lysine. But to make stuffing really healthful, use whole-wheat bread or high-fiber grains like wild rice. And cook stuffing outside the bird, where it won't absorb fat-laden drippings...
From the hot meze, the Karentika ($3.50), a chickpea custard in a pie crust, is uniformly bland. It comes smothered, however, under a wonderfully piquant harissa, a spicy condiment made by pounding chili peppers in a mortar with salt, olive oil, and spices. Harissa is one of the foundations of all North African cooking, and it’s excellent at Baraka Café. You’d be well-advised to order harissa alone as a meze ($3.50), and forgo the Karentika. The Zaatar Coca ($4.50)—a hand-stretched bread, grilled over a fire, then sprinkled...