Word: crustularius
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...Crustularius, the classic pastry cook, is about 300 years old. It became widespread with the price drop that took sugar out of the luxury class in the 1830's. Such culinary guides as Carême's Maitre d'Hotel francaise, and Ranhofer's Epicurean published elaborate engravings and full directions for making Roman helmets of strawberry ice cream and pistachios, spun-sugar rabbits stuffed with puddings or parfaits, wheelbarrows of pastry filled with sugar roses. The tower of pastry with its 52 candles awaiting President Roosevelt last week was not his first crustularian masterpiece...
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