Word: curragh
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...fickle bush telegraph can chew up police time. As well, it reveals the power of Boi, a respected leader, and the weakness of a chief such as Daga, who lacks legitimacy. Dunde village throws up a host of problems for the Munda police: drunkenness, vandalism and domestic violence. Curragh says most of these things could be nipped in the bud by a strong role model. Daga's poor example only perpetuates bad behavior...
...help. On a cloudy, humid afternoon, in Roviana lagoon, south of Munda, RSIP officer Ege Saro skippers the inflatable around shallow-lying coral reefs. Reaching open water, he pushes it to a zippy, if bumpy, 27 knots. After a 50-min. journey, the boat arrives at Rendova Island, and Curragh and Sergeant Allenson Tiazy jump from the boat onto a small wharf at Ughele village - to be greeted by a throng of children that appears to double in size by the minute. It's a common Melanesian scene: skylarking children enjoying their freedom, men in earnest discussion at disused market...
...trip can cost a day's wages - the police are always on the lookout for alternatives. Offenders might be asked to clean up the growth around markets with their bush knives or do other work in the village. "We've had to change our way of policing here," says Curragh. The measures they've come up with "seem to be really effective, and the community is happy about...
...Munda police are conscious of traditional hierarchies and try to work with chiefs wherever they can. In nearby Nusa Roviana, once the coral-walled fort of notorious head-hunter Ingava, Curragh and skipper Saro have come to see the chief, John Boi. As light rain falls through a canopy of coconut palms, the police tramp a muddy path. Earlier in the day, 4 km across the lagoon, Dunde village was swept by a rumor that Chief Boi had banned a local candidate in tomorrow's provincial election from campaigning in Nusa Roviana. Dunde's chief, Eki Lee Daga, informs Curragh...
...evening before an election is known as "devil's night." It's when deals are done, money is exchanged, and candidates put last-minute pressure on voters. The atmosphere brings out the louts and alcohol abusers. Dressed in civvies, Curragh and Vei Koso head out after dinner in a four-wheel-drive to show their presence; in the dim, 40-watt glow of surrounding villages, officials are working late to ensure they're ready to meet the first voters when polling begins at 7 a.m. Curragh leaves the vehicle to caution one of chief Daga's buddies, who is drinking...