Word: custards
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...flavor of the dish," says Tanguay. "You can't do that with wine." Haute-cuisine restaurants--from New York's Per Se to Chicago's Charlie Trotter's to Rubicon in San Francisco--are increasingly looking to sake pairings to satiate--and educate--diners. This fall, in the custard-colored dining room of Chanterelle, an icon of French cuisine in Manhattan, the restaurant held its ninth annual sake-pairing dinner. The chandeliered room flowed with Japanese syllables as master sommelier Roger Dagorn led the pouring of a different sake with each of the nine courses. At the main table...
...White's masterpiece Charlotte's Web, the parents of Fern and Avery Arable watch nervously as the children charge off toward the Ferris wheel and frozen custard, the merry-go-round and wonderful music of a bustling fairground. "Well, they've got to grow up some time," Mr. Arable says to his wistful missus. "And a fair is a good place to start, I guess...
...Papa's is the Dunkin' Donuts of Japan, only it has replaced fried dough with cream puffs on steroids. It opened its first U.S. store in 2003 and has been invading mall spots. Inside each store, Japanese women in uniforms push down on metal levers to plop rich, creamy custard mixed with whipped cream into oversize profiterole shells. Like so much of Japanese culture, Beard Papa's has taken our creation and refracted it through the mythological wholesomeness of America in the 1950s--which is just what you want fast-food dessert to taste like...
...classic Chocolat Chaud has 53% cocoa content (milky, sweet and reminiscent of childhood), and the decadent Chocolate Expresso is made with cream instead of hot milk - it's so thick it could be mistaken for custard. Frenchman Espouy takes his patrons on a tour of cocoa-producing countries: the Caribbean Santo Domingo, made with 70% cocoa, is spicy and bold, while the bittersweet African Tanzania is reminiscent of a complex cognac. The adventurous will want to try the Infinite Extravagance, made to the ancient Inca recipe, with 100% cocoa liquor and hot milk infused with chilies. For the indecisive, there...
...also proved to be more than a mouthful for contenders in the pie-eating contest, which featured apple, blueberry, coconut, and custard flavored pies...