Word: cutout
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...Weiss, who allows theatrical directors to stage his dramas in widely varying versions and lengths. Still, it would take more talent than the average collector possesses to "participate" in one of Fahlstrom's masterpieces, Dr. Schweitzer's Last Mission. It consists of eight painted metal boxes, ten cutout boards and 50 magnetic cutouts, many of them hung by nylon threads from the walls and ceiling. It took Fahlstrom three years to dream it up. And for the present show, where it occupies most of a room, the artist needed two helpers and three days to install...
...Rudi Gernreich, 44, is the standout. No designer for conformists, he will go all out to make his point, reaped a whirlwind of publicity in 1964 with his topless bathing suits. He only sold 3,000, but everyone has paid attention to him ever since, last year for his "cutout" fashions, this year for his daring halter-necked black jersey dinner gown and his suit tailored like a surgeon's apron...
...traditions are equally important. Changes in customs and manners are most visible and affect people most immediately. But the U.S. will undoubtedly survive the frug and the cutout dress as it did the disappearance of the napkin ring and the morning coat. Far more significant is the break with intellectual and moral tradition, the questioning not of a particular authority but of the concept of authority itself. A nation needs a sense of history as much as it needs a sense of the future; it needs tradition not as a soporific, but as a means of measuring itself. Anthropologist Loren...
Other designers have sought out other views. "We are finding that the way to expose is best done in not so vital areas," says Sidney Smilove, designer for Sea B, and he demonstrates what he means with cutout suits that will have men looking at places that never seemed interesting before. Some designers were exploiting the possibilities of netting, which coyly shams at concealing what it clearly reveals. "The back is sexually important, while the exposed navel is no longer news," proclaims Designer Bill Blass, whose backless halter for Roxanne is the halter of the season...
...rubber gloves and old shoes. There was pornography from Holland by Johannes Oldeboerrigter (painted genitalia piled on platters) and pornography from Sweden by Ulf Rahmberg (comic-booklike engravings of copulation). There was a Uruguayan artist named Carlos Paez who offered a circus happening in a black tent with motorized cutout forms, flashing lights and noises of factory din, screams, sighs and sobs controlled by the artist himself from an electrical console. Said Paez: "I want to present the quintessence of a slice of life...