Word: daiginjo
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...pseudonym of a sake-loving, Edo-era lord and means "drunken whale." Though production has not increased much in its kura, built in 1872, Suigei has nevertheless increased its revenues 30% over the past decade by concentrating on quality sake. Shigeji Ishimoto, the brewery head, says top-grade daiginjo and ginjo sake account for 75% of Suigei's $6.3 million in sales, up from almost nothing when my grandfather bought it in 1968. Last year its daiginjo won a gold medal at the national sake competition...
...Suigei's kura is chilly and dark and reeks sweetly of fermenting rice. The first step in the sakemaking process is the milling and polishing of rice. The more it is polished, the higher the grade of sake. For Suigei's top-grade daiginjo, each grain of famed Yamada nishiki rice is polished until just 30% remains. The rice is then washed and soaked in giant tanks, and poured into vats for steaming...
...Japan. Sasano, in the Akasaka entertainment district of Tokyo, is a current hot spot. Regulars sit at the wood-slab bar in the nouveau-Japanese restaurant, where manager Miwa Taguchi recommends selections from the 70 sake choices to flatter each dish a diner orders. Connoisseurs start with a daiginjo such as Higan from Niigata prefecture, which boasts a pretty transparency and refreshing taste that goes well with salty burdock-root chips. The distinctive ginjo-grade Suiro is a good balance for tempura pork. Premium sakes like these are usually served chilled so that drinkers can better savor their nuances...
Suigei's kura is chilly and dark and reeks sweetly of fermenting rice. The first step in the sakemaking process is the milling and polishing of rice. The more it is polished, the higher the grade of sake. In Suigei's top-grade daiginjo, each grain of famed Yamada nishiki rice is polished until just 30% remains. The rice is then washed and soaked in giant tanks, and poured into vats for steaming...
...Japan. Sasano, in the Akasaka entertainment district of Tokyo, is a current hot spot. Regulars sit at the wood-slab bar in the nouveau-Japanese restaurant, where manager Miwa Taguchi recommends selections from the 70 sake choices to flatter each dish a diner orders. Connoisseurs start with a daiginjo like Higan from Niigata prefecture, which boasts a pretty transparency and refreshing taste that goes well with salty burdock-root chips. The distinctive ginjo-grade Suiro is a good balance for tempura-fried pork. Premium sakes like these are usually served chilled, so drinkers can better savor their nuances...