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...kitchen every night. That's where Batali is blessed - he has help from guys like Mike Toscano, who will be running the Eataly meat restaurant, and Mark Ladner, who runs Del Posto, Batali's upscale, special-occasion restaurant. Jean Georges can't be in his namesake restaurant every day, but his guy there, Mark Lapico, can. The same goes for Colicchio, with James Tracey at Craft. They aren't the big names, but they channel the big names and make the food come alive. And for those other chefs on the Beard list, the ones who are creating fantastic, blooming...
...registered him for the school lunch program. But when he failed to appear in the lunchroom after that, city officials quickly took notice. My explanation - that I thought he should take a break and eat lunch at home in the middle of the day - was apparently not sufficient. This was personal. (See 10 things to do in Paris...
...French," the official said, picking up a brochure from her desk. I knew this brochure well, having e-mailed it to friends in the U.S. last year as a this-could-only-happen-in-France conversation piece. It lists in great detail the lunch menu for each school day over a two-month period. On Mondays, the menus are also posted on the wall outside every school in the country. The variety on the menus is astonishing: no single meal is repeated over the 32 school days in the period, and every meal includes an hors d'oeuvre, salad, main...
...system in action earlier this month. Caught short by a sick nanny, my son, who was accustomed to eating leftovers from the refrigerator, sat in silence with his 25 classmates at tables in the nursery-school cafeteria, while city workers served a leisurely, five-course meal. One day, when I arrived to collect him, a server whispered for me to wait until the dessert course was over. Out in the hall, one of the staff shouted for "total quiet" to a crowd of 4-year-olds awaiting the next lunch seating. "I will now read you today's menu...
Public schools in France are overcrowded, rigid and hierarchical. And parents, who are never addressed by their first names, are strongly discouraged from entering school buildings, let alone the classrooms. I cannot tell you what my child learns, paints or builds on any given school day. But I do know that on Feb. 4, he ate hake in Basque sauce, mashed pumpkin, cracked rice, Edam cheese and organic fruits for lunch. That meant stuffed marrows and apples for dinner. The city of Paris said...