Word: delhi
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...work up the same level of excitement over a functioning transport network. But together with a new system of traffic-thinning overpasses, the closure of smoke-belching factories and the forced conversion of thousands of gasoline-powered rickshaws into natural-gas ones, they, like residents, will discover that New Delhi is suddenly able to offer oases of, er, rest and tranquillity...
...vehicles?4 million?is more than Bombay's, Calcutta's and Madras' combined, is still a long way from becoming a Vancouver or a Sydney. But since 1995, pollution levels have dropped 25%, says Dilip Biswas, chairman of the Central Pollution Control Board. No longer does every other Delhi-ite suffer from a respiratory disease. Walkers in the city's many parks now leave their face masks at home. As Biswas says, "Sulfur dioxide in the air is within prescribed limits, and suspended particle matter has also come down." And, more poetically, "Now you can see the stars at night...
...take advantage of those rare smog-free days, go for a stroll along the broad, grassy Rajpath avenue, New Delhi's Champs Elys?es. Featuring the President's residence with its ornamental lakes on either side and India Gate, it is on every tour of India's capital. But with distant views disappearing into the daytime haze, Rajpath can also be an uncomfortable reminder of how far New Delhi is from breathing easy. Early evening, however, when the congestion eases and the monuments are illuminated, is a joy. For a quick history lesson, head southeast to the 16th century Humayun...
...Sayyid dynasty, which is an early example of the style that would later culminate in the Taj Mahal. More importantly, it is also home to the Lodi Garden Restaurant, a delightful upmarket establishment that distinguishes itself by combining in one place all four rarities of the New Delhi dining scene: outdoor tables, palatable Continental food, a liquor license and (holy cow!) steak. At $25-$50 a head for a meal with wine, prices are monstrous by Indian standards. But there can be few better evenings in the city than one that starts with a stroll through the gardens, past lily...
...With all this wide-open space, some visitors may feel they're missing out on the real New Delhi. Those who fancy some authentic hustle and bustle need look no further than the crushingly congested Chandni Chowk area. Even though the metro will open here first, it's unlikely to provide much relief to the maze of hawkers and shopkeepers, donkeys and camels, trucks and bicycle rickshaws, selling everything from myrrh to liquid mercury to Mickey Mouse dolls. Only hardened Delhi hands can manage much more than a few hours of this kind of chaos. But these days, escape...