Word: deli
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Author David Sax is a man on a (delicious) mission. His goal? To preserve the delicatessen tradition. His new book, Save the Deli: In Search of Perfect Pastrami, Crusty Rye, and the Heart of Jewish Delicatessen (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt), is a mouthwatering paean to corned-beef culture. The Oct. 20 launch party for his book, appropriately, was held at Ben's, a sprawling delicatessen in Manhattan's Garment District. Between bites, TIME senior reporter Andrea Sachs caught up with the knish connoisseur. (See pictures of what makes you eat more food...
...What did you find out? I found out the Jewish deli has certainly been going away for some time, but that hope isn't lost. Wherever there are deli lovers and people who salivate when they get a whiff of corned beef or when they put their tongues on a matzo ball, they're transported back to this pristine wonderland of their youth - whether they're Jewish...
...What makes a good deli? And how many did you visit while writing your book? I visited about 150, 160, something like that. I don't have an exact tally...
...Colombia (medium) Via. I also bought a cup of the daily dark roast, Sumatra, black, for comparison, as well as a couple of croissants and some vanilla-bean scones, as accompaniments and because TIME was paying. I also picked up a jar of Folgers crystals from the corner deli, whipped up a pot of homemade coffee (Guatemala, from Costco) and put on a pot of filtered NYC tap water...
...butt up against one another in an uneasy but (to the outsider) exhilarating whorl: a mere corner of a city block can contain a Mexican vendor selling sweet flavored ice, a Middle Eastern cart full of fresh mangoes, a Dominican cafe cooking spicy sandwiches, and an old Jewish deli hawking hunks of pastrami (all cheap, for the visitor). Some blocks resemble a World's Fair of bargain grocery stores, places of worship, and trendy bars. Red brick housing projects hide not far away. Even while standing at the base of a solid and impressive historic landmark, the outsider cannot escape...