Word: denim
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...present - showing shrunken jackets over full, tulip-shaped skirts, or, in Watanabe's case, pumping up the strictly tailored 1950s couture jacket by cutting it from down-filled nylon. Watanabe called his clothes "classic in all senses, regardless of the period." And his mix of hip-hop inspired baggy denim and snug jackets - cut to resemble Christian Dior's famous 1950s numbers - looked modern and romantic at the same time. Also going back to the future was Olivier Theyskens, who reinvented Rochas by combining the house's signature frilly black lace and ruffled tiers of organza with shapes and colors...
...more realistic and tangible quality when you’re earning $10 an hour in a part-time job. That’s a lot of shelving books, after all. But I’m beginning to think that at an affluent college like Harvard, where designer denim is de rigeur, the very notion of financial independence that Donahue seems to be invoking could only ever be an idealistic one. Here, the self-sustaining student who is bereft of parental bailouts remains very much in a minority, while the rest of us buy up big online and worry about which...
...company that birthed the first jean took note of Calvin when she developed a dark, rigid denim finish inspired by vintage styles. Calvin, then 28, with no formal design training, began creating innovative finishes for the San Francisco--based Levi's in 1990. By the time she became the company's U.S. creative director in 2001, she had reinvigorated the brand throughout Europe by blending its rich heritage with a young, sexy edge. "Caroline knows how to take something old and modernize it into something no one's ever seen before," says Tony Carnot of Swift Denim in New York...
Calvin launched new "premium" fits, including Levi's RED, which became the best-selling denim line in Barneys, and designed the Levi's Vintage Clothing line, culling from the company archives. In 2002 she introduced low-rise jeans for men and overhauled the brand's core line after the largest fit test in denim history to create a style and fit for nearly everybody, and every body...
Others were feeling strongly about ditching baggy cargo pants. "It's a longing for femininity," says Ann-Sofie Johansson, the other co--head designer for Divided. Ladylike Audrey Hepburn dresses, full skirts and twin sets were the next logical step. Denim took a rockabilly turn with selvage. The fall runways substantiated the new direction, but Van den Bosch remains cautious: "We feel very much for narrow trousers, but the customers aren't ready." So H&M is offering intermediary versions as well, and the moment sales data spike, tens of thousands more pairs will be ordered...