Word: designate
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...mechanical stability by virtue of its bony architecture. In other words, it would be always dislocated were it not for the soft tissues that surround it. Your shoulder moves more widely and in more different ways than any other joint in the body, yet it's very strong. The design feature that enables these feats is the cuff - three flat tendons that blend together like a thick leathery hood covering a bald man's head - the head in this case being the smooth cartilage-covered ball at the top of the humerus or arm bone. The cuff's unique tendons...
...None of this fluffy stuff will pass muster with the guy I consider one of New York's great design talents: Narciso Rodriguez. He has a razor-sharp eye for tailoring and an ability to reinvent so much in terms of how clothes are cut. With innovative fabrics Rodriguez can take something so obvious - like a flowing chiffon goddess gown - and make it look totally new. For spring he added color blocking in tomato red or teal and sent out some beautiful breezy coats in cool lacquered fabrics. Derek Lam is also experimenting with the American sportswear vocabulary, drawing inspiration...
Indeed, part of the job of managing such big, creative personalities, ultimately, is listening and staying in the background. Or, as Chloé president Ralph Toledano (no blood relation to Sidney, although they grew up together in Casablanca) puts it, you become master and servant to the design talent. "I spend my life listening to people to see what I can do to help without expecting any kind of return," he says. But Chloé's Toledano also makes sure nobody ever loses sight of the pecking order. "There are some moments you say yes and some moments you say no. There...
Fendi CEO Michael Burke faced a similar dilemma when he took over the Roman-based brand in 2004. With a mandate from LVMH boss Bernard Arnault to turn the company around, Burke had to find a way to keep designer Karl Lagerfeld in the fold and also massage a better relationship between the designer and Silvia Venturini Fendi, the talent behind Fendi's handbag business. That required yet another kind of nuclear power plant, one that Burke promptly set about creating in the form of Fendi's historic palazzo in the center of Rome, which he renovated in order...
...managers may hold the strings, but sometimes a designer snips them, as Phoebe Philo did at Chloé when she resigned last spring. Ralph Toledano concedes that although Chloé is currently a collective endeavor by Philo's design team, a brand needs a fashion face. And the chain reaction cannot happen unless all the elements are in place...