Word: designer
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Dates: during 1980-1989
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...younger, less familiar talent. Although the so-called Japanese look has got roughed up--even as it has been ripped off--by the fashion establishment, and much of the fashion press tries to write it off and wipe it out, the Tokyo shows demonstrate a true trade surplus of design vitality. Tokyo may not be fully a fashion capital yet, but it is well...
...Tokyo shows were organized by a council of premier designers created by Yohji Yamamoto, Kawakubo, Miyake, Mitsuhiro Matsuda, Kansai Yamamoto and Hanae Mori to wedge the country's talent into the traditional fashion route: Milan, Paris, New York. Paris is still the major market, however, even for Tokyo's finest. "Showing there, from the design point of view, is more intense," Kawakubo says. "It's the first presentation of my new work in front of journalists from all over the world." These, however, are not the best of times for any design that makes demands on the initiative and imagination...
...Western design professionals recognize that the Japanese have worked changes in the look and line of conventional clothes as radical as anything that has happened in fashion in the past quarter-century. Notes Laura Sinderbrand, director of the design laboratory at New York City's Fashion Institute of Technology: "They were in the forefront of giving us new shapes. They helped us break out of the mold of the set-in sleeve, fitted waistlines, rounded necklines." "Every single fashion designer has copied their skirts, shapes, wraps," comments Alan Bilzerian, who sells a lot of Japanese design in his forward-looking...
...firm grounding, Tokyo needs young design talent to strike out on new paths off the main road that Miyake and the others are still exploring. Too many of the Tokyo shows were, indeed, numbing attempts to run fancy numbers on mainstream fashion, but there is a group of young designers, like Kensho Abe and Atsuro Tayama, who are coming on strong, and others who have already made an indelible impression. Four...
AKIRA ONOZUKA, 35, has spent the past 13 years at the Miyake Design Studio, whence he was recently dispatched to Cannon Mills in North Carolina on a textile project. "I met the president of Cannon, and he looked at me kind of funny," Onozuka remembers. "Then I went into the factory and I saw why. All the workers were dressed like me." Onozuka's Odds On line, now in its first season, shows not only his affection for well-worn American work wear but also a witty and idiosyncratic eye for fabrication and shaping that make his clothes look...